ETO „British Made”
Wool Field Uniform
(1944 - 1945)
The ETO “British-Made” Wool Field Uniform was created primarily as an alternative to the M-1943 field jacket. Army nurses serving in Europe received their first ETO field uniforms, which were manufactured in England, during the winter of 1944. However, this type of uniform was also popular with other female branches such as the Women's Army Corps (WAC). Unfortunately, the process of getting this uniform approved was very complicated and lengthy for many reasons, so the uniform as a whole (jacket, trousers, skirt and garrison cap in the same fabric) was not available until September 1945.
The material for this jacket, as well as for the skirt and trousers that went with it, was initially wool in a shade of light olive drab, but later the choice of fabric was extended to a thinner and darker olive drab in No. 37.
Many Army nurses, however, preferred ETO uniforms tailored by a tailor and made of quality fabrics in a dark olive drab color. Other army nurses, for example, had their service jackets altered to an "ETO battle jacket" style, saving money and fabric.
JACKET:
The women's wool field jacket is cut in a similar style to the British battledress blouse. It is also often called the "Ike jacket" or "battle jacket". There are two wide pockets on the chest. Each pocket has a single button, which is covered by a decoratively cut out flap. Although the pockets are fully functional (i.e., not fake), it was not appropriate for ANC members to put anything inside. The jacket is fastened by a row of four buttons which are concealed beneath a full-length flap on the front of the jacket. When fastening, the flap has to be lifted off. The waistband is an integral part of the jacket and is made of identical material. The belt also includes a buckle made of darkened steel, which can be used to adjust the size. The jacket is equipped with shoulder straps to attach the rank insignia, two buttons on each cuff to adjust the width of the sleeve and a special tab located on the inside in the waistband area that contains two buttonholes. These buttonholes can be used to attach ETO trousers or a skirt.
Jacket, Field, Wool, OD, Women's
Women’s waist-length wool field jacket had folded pockets covered with decorative cut-out flap. The waist belt has a buckle made of darkened steel to prevent glare. The cuffs were adjustable with two buttons for the wearer's comfort.
Jacket, Field, Wool, OD, Women's
(inside)
On the inside of the jacket there is a hanging loop and buttonholes at the back of the waistband for attaching trousers or skirt. Two metal hooks are located on the inside front of the waistband for a more comfortable fastening. When the flap is uncovered, the entire row of buttons can be seen.
The vast majority of ETO jackets made in Britain date from 1945, but it is still possible to find jackets dating as early as 1944. However, most of the original photographs taken in e.g. France, Belgium, Germany, Czechoslovakia or Austria, in which the "battle jacket" can be seen, date from 1945. The jacket was very popular mainly because of its comfort and practicality. At the same time, it gave the wearer more freedom of movement than, for example, a service jacket.
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Jacket, Field, Wool, OD, Women's
(size label)
Size label sewn on the inside of a wool field jacket.
The insignia on the ETO British-Made uniform is placed in the same way as on the service uniform. The Army Nurse Corps insignia is on both lapels of the jacket, with metal "U.S." officer insignia pinned above. The rank insignia are placed on the shoulder straps and on the left side of the garrison cap.
SKIRT AND TROUSERS:
The unlined, below-knee length skirt is made of the same material as the rest of the ETO women's uniform. The skirt is buttoned only on the left side. The skirt is high-waisted and has two added buttons located on the inside in the waist area at the back of the skirt. They are used to attach the jacket.
Skirt, Wool, OD, Women’s
The women's wool skirt in olive green in an A-line cut and below the knee length could be attached to a wool field jacket with hidden buttons.
Slacks, Wool, OD, Women’s
Wool trousers suitable for colder weather or work could also be attached to a wool field jacket. Together they formed a complete set.
The women's high-waisted wool trousers were also designed to be worn with a women's jacket and are made of the same material. They fasten with three buttons located on the left side of the hip. The trousers have only one hidden pocket inserted in the seam on the right side. Like the skirt, they are equipped with two buttons at the back to attach them to the jacket.
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Above:
Short "British Made" jacket and skirt combined with cotton shirt, khaki tie and brown leather handbag. The headgear here is a helmet liner with the attached rank of first lieutenant.
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Above:
ETO field jacket with trousers made of the same fabric, women's garrison cap with black and gold piping and wool shirt. Here the shirt is worn without a tie, with the collar open over the jacket. It is a looser style of wearing the uniform, typical for both men and women.
SHIRT:
The uniform was worn with a women's wool or khaki cotton shirt and a matching khaki tie. The shirt had two rectangular breast pockets. Later during the war the size of the pockets was enlarged, the shape of the flaps changed to triangular and a hole was added on the left pocket for inserting a pencil. The cut of the shirt accentuates the woman's figure thanks to the pleats at the waist.
Waist, Cotton, Women’s
(first pattern)
Women's khaki shirt made of poplin. The photo shows the first model of the shirt, with rectangular pocket flaps. The shirt had no shoulder epaulets.
Waist, Cotton, Women’s
(revised pattern)
Second model of women's shirt with triangular pocket flaps. On the left pocket there is a hole for inserting a pencil. The shirt was worn under the jacket and had no shoulder epaulets.
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Waist, Wool, Women’s
(first pattern)
The women's wool shirt was patterned after the cotton one, but was warmer and more durable. It has wide chest pockets, a narrowed waist and double pleating. It is suitable for winter service uniforms and field uniforms.
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Waist, Wool, Women’s
(revised pattern)
Women’s wool shirt with wide chest pockets. There is an added hole on the left pocket for inserting a pencil. There is double pleating on both sides, one in the shoulder area and the other directly under the yoke of the shirt. The shirt is narrowed at the waist to accentuate the feminine figure and make it more comfortable.
NECKTIE:
A khaki tie complemented the ETO uniform. It was made of a cotton and mohair blend, which made it wrinkle resistant. Women's ties looked similar to men's ties, but they were shorter.
Necktie, Women’s
Women's khaki tie (left) next to men's officer's tie of the same color (right).
HEADWEAR:
The British-Made uniform (whether it was a combination of jacket and trousers or jacket and skirt) was usually worn with a women’s officer’s garrison cap. It had black and gold piping and was made of the same material as the uniform. The women's garrison cap differed from the men's garrison cap primarily in that they were cut in a banana shape to form a compact ensemble along with the hairstyles typical of the 1940s. The respective rank insignia was always placed in the front on the left side. Female members of the Army were required by regulation to wear the garrison cap tilted by 1 inch to the right.
In authentic photographs it can be seen that members of the Army Nurse Corps also wear the officer's men's serge wool garrison caps, officer’s women's OD garrison caps or the nurse's service caps.
Cap, Garrison, OD, Wool, Serge, Men's, Officer's
Men's officer's garrison cap made of wool serge. The headgear has a black and gold piping and the rank of lieutenant pinned on the left side.
Cap, Garrison, OD, Wool, Serge, Women's, Officer's
Women's officer's wool serge garrison cap with a characteristic rounded shape. It has black and gold piping and the rank of lieutenant pinned on the left. The color matches the ETO uniform.
Cap, Garrison, Wool, Women, Officers’
Women's officer's olive drab garrison cap with a rounded shape. The cap of this shape was designed to fit better with the hairstyles of the time.
Cap, Service, Wool, OD, Nurse’s
The cap which can be seen in the photo, was designed by the private New York company Knox Hats and was intended exclusively for nurses serving in the Army.
Closer to the front, where it wasn't entirely safe, the nurses opted for an M-1 steel helmet or the helmet liner instead of a garrison cap or service cap.
Helmet, Steel, M-1
The complete M-1 steel helmet used by all combat units consists of the following parts: steel helmet with chinstrap and liner with leather chinstrap.
Liner, Helmet M-1, New Type
The second helmet liner pattern is made of fiberglass. It is painted only on the outside. Optionally, the nurses could paint a military rank on the front or attach a metal rank insignia in a special hole. The insert includes a leather chinstrap.
FOOTWEAR:
Either lace-up women's field ankle boots or regulation brown leather oxfords were appropriate for this uniform. Wearing leggings was not compulsory, so the nurses usually kept their trousers loose.
Shoes, Service, Women’s, Low
Brown leather oxfords are stylish shoes built for comfort. They have 1 ½ -inch heels, rubber lifts and leather soles.
Shoes, Field, Women’s
A 4 ½ -inch laced shoe, similar to the Army field shoe, in proper design for women. They have 1-inch rubber heels and full rubber soles.
In the final phase of the war in Europe, Army nurses took a liking to a new model of field boots with sewn-on leather tops into which the trouser legs could be conveniently tucked. Combat service boots, also referred to as double buckle boots, were often worn in conjunction with ETO trousers.
Boots, Service, Combat, Women’s
The women's boots used in the field by the Women's Army Corps (WAC) and Army Nurse Corps (ANC) were very similar to their men's counterparts and did not differ much in appearance. The manufacturing method used for this new type of boot was identical to that used for the production of the women's field shoes, so that the wearing comfort of both types of boot was comparable.
GLOVES:
Nurses could wear brown leather gloves or olive green woolen gloves in combination with the ETO uniform.
Gloves, Leather, Dress, Women’s
Women's brown leather gloves were made of plain leather without any decorative elements.
Gloves, Wool, OD, Women’s
Wool olive drab gloves for cold weather.
HANDBAG:
The rectangular leather handbag for army nurses was introduced in late 1942. It had a detachable shoulder strap and a wallet inside. The color of the leather matched the brown color of the oxford shoes. The strap could be adjusted for over-the-shoulder wear, shortened for hand carry, or completely removed for under-the-arm wear.
Bag, Utility, Nurses’
A leather handbag with pockets and a change purse. The lining is made of cotton poplin, OD in color. The strap can be adjusted for wearing over the shoulder or shortened for carrying in the hand, or can be removed altogether to allow for carrying under the arm.
(The handbag in the photos comes from Victoria Pageot's collection)
STOCKINGS AND SOCKS:
When combined with a skirt, rayon seamed stockings or warmer and stronger mercerized stockings made of cotton were worn with the ETO uniform. Both had a 4 ½ -inch garter top and a reinforced foot. When trousers were worn, nurses chose all-wool ribbed socks.
Stockings, Rayon, Women’s
A medium weight, viscose rayon stocking. It is full-fashioned with 4 ½ -inch garter top and reinforced foot (reproduction).
Stockings, Cotton, Beige, Women’s
A medium weight, mercerized lisle stocking. It is full-fashioned with 4 ½ -inch garter top and reinforced foot (reproduction).
Anklets, Wool, Women’s
A medium weight, all-wool sock, English rib design with cuff. The heel and toes are reinforced with cotton.
OUTERWEAR:
On cold and rainy days, nurses could wear a double-breasted coat made of windproof and waterproof cotton poplin over their ETO uniform. The coat had a detachable hood and a removable warm wool liner. The officer's version of this coat, which was used by nurses, had epaulets on which the military rank was attached. The coat could be worn with trousers or with a skirt.
In November 1944, women were additionally given the option to purchase a wool coat, which was available in two shades, OD No. 51 and No. 52. It was worn only with a skirt.
Overcoat, Field, Women’s, Officer’s
The officer's trenchcoat with a detachable hood could be worn by nurses on colder days together with the ETO field uniform.
Overcoat, Wool, Women’s, Officers'
The wool coat in OD No. 52 shade was not issued to the nurses but could be purchased privately at the nurse’s own expense.
